Hue

Staying
DMZ
I stayed 2 nights at the DMZ hotel - booked through Agoda.com for about $15AUD each night.
When I arrived I was told that as they were very busy and most rooms were full - I have been upgraded to the deluxe "city view" room. I am not sure what exactly made it "deluxe.... maybe that it had a computer in the room? maybe the normal rooms don't have windows? But I got a window, and tiny balcony. The "city view" was more of the big ugly building opposite and nothing else.
The bed was comfortable enough, the bathroom worked and had a luxurious rain shower (although, the toilet was pressed against the shower glass and it was hard to fit!) and the whole room was clean.

hiding out from the midday heat I ordered room service once - prices were reasonable, and the food was actually really tasty (I had pasta) but there wasn't much food, next time I would get 2 courses.

What to do?
Bike ride
I most enjoyed riding a bike around the country-side. It is a very easy bike ride to the Thien Mu pagoda, where you can hop across the river on a boat (with your bike - bargain hard, these guys are much more ferocious boat drivers!). From the drop off point - TURN LEFT (the boat driver told me to ride right, which went against my judgement.... and in fact ended in me backtracking 2km to find the road! It is easy enough to ride to Tu Duc's mausoleum.

Tu Hieu Pagoda

On the way back to Hue, assuming you aren't completely over saturated with pagodas, stop off at Tu Hieu Pagoda. Set on a hill amongst pine forests it features beautiful ponds and gardens. Lovely cool spot to have a rest and sit and contemplate life.

If you want to take a packed lunch - hit up La Boulangerie Francese before you leave Hue. They take in orphans and street children and train them to bake traditional french style rolls and cakes. This is the only place I have had a decent cake!

Tombs

Tu Duc's tomb

I saw Tu Duc's tomb. This one is a pretty easy bike ride as above. I liked it, there a nice breeze, lots of wide open spaces and trees. These are all things I like. A few buildings - houses and theatres with old costumes, jeweled bonsai trees and random artifacts to look at. There is an island near the entrance with monkeys living on it.
For a few dollars you can dress up in imperial clothes and sit on the emperors throne.
There are many many tombs you can go see. I only went to the one (So far) and I feel the tours that visit all 8 would be long, expensive and tedious. But friends of mine visited 3 in a morning, and they enjoyed three - try to go to very varied ones though!

Citadel

Citadel at night during special event.

I saw the citadel at night during a special event, and it was stunning. In the daytime it is very, very hot. please go early morning or late afternoon.... otherwise you just won't be able to appreciate anything! Lots of stone and concrete to be bouncing sun off! but it's interesting, assuming you have an interest in old stuff.






Bars
For some reason, even though I don't like the drinking, partying, backpacker scene.... in Hue, I get into it. Well, I go to a bar I like, and if I meet fun people I might even keep going afterwards!
Hue backpackers Hostel - has a good bar, with good quality alcohol (No metho!) and good music, played at a volume which allows you to talk! The owner is an Aussie, and is often hanging out near the end of the bar. Lovely guy, great for a chat! They are also able to give advice and arrange tours, and I find they tend to give advice about all the ways to travel (e.g. here is the cost of local bus / train; here is a tour; here is a taxi price) rather than just pushing their own tours.
Plus, they have awesome food (I only tried the western food - it had been 3 months since I had a pizza! but I am sure their Vietnamese food is good too!), good cocktails, happy hours regularly, and giant jenga.
You can also participate in the duck egg challenge, or get a variety of favoured shots. Point is - everytime I have been there, I have had a good time!

Spa luxury
Evan - 4 pham ngu lao street
Know that spa services in Vietnam aren't for everyone. Privacy and inappropriate touching locations are not what you would get in a western spa! If you can't deal with getting undressed while someone stands next to you waiting and watching..... go to a fancy hotel with a more expensive spa!

I got the massage and body scrub. It wasn't perfect - I wanted the massage and mudwrap. But I ended up with a scrub and it was good. The woman had very, very strong hands and gave a good strong massage!
But there was a fair bit of one handed massage while texting someone. - I was also told by some friends who got massages later that they felt the massage was too soft, but I don't think any of them told their person the be harder.

But the massage was good, the scrub was nice, and I feel well pampered and soft! The spa has air-conditioning which was very needed! Lockers in the treatment room to store your handbag and very comfortable soft mattresses on the treatment beds.


Scams
Cyclo and motorbike taxi's are extremely persistent here! Much more than anywhere else I have been. However, if you politely say no once, then completely ignore them - or say Toi di Bo (I am walking). they lose interest. If one harrasses you - DO NOT GET IN IT! this just teaches them that if they harass and keep annoying you, you will give in.
I have also heard of people agreeing to go for a one hour cyclo ride around the city, assuming the ride would return to the original place, but instead finding themselves in the middle of nowhere, and the driver demanding more money to take you back. Either stay in the cyclo and refuse to give him more money - (assuming you were clear at the start that the tour would return to the same place). Of get out, and get some other mototaxi, or some other cyclo back. Please don't reward them for their lying and scheming!

Incense making village on the bike ride to Tu Duc's tomb 

Da Nang - more than just an airport

Da Nang seems to get skipped on most people's list of places to travel in Vietnam. Well, almost skipped. It is usually used as a convenient train station/airport, from which people get a taxi or bus to Hoi An.

This is unfair, because it actually has a reasonable amount to offer.

1. Da Nang is a great "local" city to visit. It is easy for visitors to get around and get whatever they need because many people speak at least a little English. Especially at the train station. Otherwise, I usually have no problem getting what I need with a tiny amount of Vietnamese and sign language. Because it doesn't have a huge tourist following (most of the foreigners here are doing business) you don't get harassed to buy things, or go into this or that restaurant constantly. Mostly, people just say hello and invite you in for a drink because they are genuinely interested and excited to see Westerners. In 3 months of living here - I have once been asked for money by a beggar / lottery ticket sales woman. The local council is actually very strict with beggars - but has available shelter and food for homeless people (If caught begging more than once people will be taken to the homeless shelter, regardless of whether or not they want to go there). Mostly people who are poor sell lottery tickets (they don't usually bother with Westerners because we don't know how the lottery works!) or collect rubbish to sell for recycling.

2. It is an easy visit on the way to such tourist sites as Hoi An and Hue (or, between these two sites!). The train from Hue to Da Nang or vis versa is 80 000 VND ($4) for soft air conditioned seats and about 3 hours of amazing scenery. The railway goes along the coast and is widely known as the most beautiful stretch of railway.

The local bus should be 20 000VND ($1) from Da Nang to Hoi An. Price does change, and I hate arguing about tiny amounts of money. So accept it if they ask for 30 000. but no more! they try to charge foreigners more on this stretch because they think they can get away with it. Don't let them! The bus people are paid by the company to be on the bus taking tickets - they will pocket the extra if you let them have it! So take exact change and only give them 20-30! Local bus can be caught from along Le duan street (look for the blue signs with a bus picture.

3. Sites
Dragon bridge
This bridge actually breathes fire and blows water out of it's mouth on Thursday and Saturday nights (Also I think sunday night as well?) at 9-9.30 (I was told it would be at 9pm. It didn't start until 9.30,, not sure if late that day or always at 9.30pm)

You can view this from either side of the river. This photo was taken from standing on the tail end of the river. You can also get quite close to the head end if you stay on that side! Even if it isn't breathing fire the bridge is beautiful at night when lit up with colour changing lights.

From the riverside (a beautiful walk featuring marble statues) you can also see the sail bridge, the Han bridge and the rainbow bridge - all of which light up at night with colour changing light shows.

Lady Buddha-              Towering over the north end of My Khe beach on the side of Monkey mountain this statue can be seen from miles away! She is well worth a trip up, just to get a feel for how big she really is! The pagoda also has an interesting garden with bonsai trees and smaller statues throughout.                                                   It can be very busy with tourist buses and large groups of people - but there is plenty of space!

Cham museum

If you are making time to go to My Son the Cham museum is worth a trip too. There are interesting photos of My Son before it was cleared of jungle and some of the best statues and sculptures were removed before the American war - thus have survived the bombing and gun fire that damaged a lot of the remaining statues. Information is presented in English (as plastic sheets you can pick up and read) and if I recall correctly it was only 20-50 000VND (I think 20). Cham Museum is located across the road from the tail of the dragon bridge.

Marble mountains

The marble mountains are to the south of town, on the way to Hoi An. If you do get a taxi you may as well as them to stop at the marble mountains. Tell the taxi you will be going onto Hoi An. He shouldn't charge you waiting time.... because if he doesn't wait it would be easy to get a new taxi anyway!

These mountains can be annoying when you get touted at constantly. However, if you are firm with a no (Khong - pronounced Kom) most of the people trying to sell incense, or marble, or whatever will leave you along. If you try to be "polite" by saying maybe later, or umming and ahhing -- they will remember and try you again later - much more insistently, or will keep pushing if you um and ahh.

Stairs up Marble Mountain

However, past the touts you get to climb many-many stairs, and discover various little caves and tunnels filled with statues and shrines. The largest of these were used as hospitals by the viet-cong during the war, even though at the base of the mountain was the US's biggest airbase! The mountain also features a pagoda and a number of lookouts. 

In the last few years an elevator has been added making it possible for those who are unable to walk up all the stairs to get to the top.  

My Khe beach

My Khe (or America beach) stretches more or less all the way from monkey mountain to Hoi An. The southern end is becoming covered with 5 star Chinese or Russian resorts.

 Happily, the parts of the beach near to the city will not become built up by resorts as the road runs along the side of the beach. This beach is by far my favourite in Vietnam (that I have been too!) I have never been annoyed by people trying to sell drinks or food while walking or relaxing on the beach (unlike other places). But there are drink stalls and deck chairs that you can rent to relax on. Early in the morning the beach is busy with locals exercising and the fishermen returning and selling fish - definitely an interesting time to walk along the beach!

 It also is patrolled by lifeguards in certain areas.

My Khe Beach

Da Nang is well worth a stop over of a night or two, if only en enjoy a relaxing change of pace from the highly trafficked tourist hotspots of Hoi An and Hue. Definitely a place to enjoy not getting offered souvenirs/clothes/whatever else touts are always trying to sell tourists!

Paying.... to volunteer?

Paying... to volunteer???

(This one is a cross post from my other blog: http://physio-overboard.blogspot.com/)

Altering wheelchairs in Tam Ky

While I travel I meet a lot of other travellers, at hotels or restaurants (often taking pity on me while I dine alone.... and starting conversations!). The topic of conversation often leads to how long are you travelling? 9 months, then I have to explain why I have been in Vietnam for 3 months already and not seen much of the country! Because I volunteer in Danang.

This leads to a discussion about the sort of volunteering and how it all works. Usually to people being surprised  that I "pay" or telling some story about how they were going to volunteer doing construction (or whatever) because they just finished some course about construction, but the people wanted $600 for the 3 weeks and so they decided to not volunteer. This was after they discussed how they have been travelling with their buddies, but it was much more expensive then when they travel alone - and they spent $5000 in 4 weeks!!

So, my opinions on "paying" to volunteer

1. What exactly does that include? For me the fee includes a beautiful house, all my meals cooked and ready for me, transport to and from the various locations everyday and a selection of resources to use with the kids (albeit a selection needing augmentation!). When I think of the costs of staying in a hotel, eating at restaurants (which would also be lesser quality food!), taxi's to and from the orphanages everyday.... that all adds up super quickly!

Kids at the baby orphanage

2. What sort of English speaking support are you getting? The truth is.... unless you have learnt to speak FLUENTLY the language of wherever you are,  you are going to be a hinderance to the local workers.
I have been working at the Redcross orphanage for 2 months, I understand the routines and the jobs that need doing and can do these with no assistance. But then, the mothers will be trying to ask, has this one been fed? or that one? I have picked up enough that with poor Vietnamese and sign language I can answer... kind of. But It also helps that I have translators on hand to ensure the kids all get fed!
And that's after 2 months. If you just turn up somewhere and try to get involved... without being able to talk to the people there, you will get in the way, take up their time while they are trying to show you, do things wrong, generally make their life harder! This is especially true if you are only planning to do 2 weeks of work during your backpacking holiday... or whatever.

It is also vitally important to have the translators for explaining those things that just seem really weird and wrong. Example: one of the girls who was tied up all day. For the first month, I never saw her tied to her cot. Then suddenly, she was roped in. I untied her played for a while, went to change more nappies.... and then looked back and lo and behold - she's tied up again. Eventually I asked and it was explained that while we had lots of volunteers around she would stay in the orphanage. But when it isn't busy with people, and she stops getting attention she often wanders off and once was found on the main highway, just wandering. So for her own safety, she is tied up. This is terrible and sad, and could easily be fixed by CLOSING THE GATE and adding a latch up high. But at least I understood, and I stopped untying her until I could go and spend time playing.

Play with the kids after our English lessons

My fees also cover some of the wages for three Vietnamese locals to run the business, transport us, come to orphanages and translate, and I know that they go and help out in orphanages even when there are no volunteers! This money goes to local people, who will spend it on other local people.


If on a construction site, or in a school - you are going to need just as much instruction or assistance from an English speaker as I do in my orphanage (no doubt more, especially if you are only there for a few weeks!). That person needs to be paid, chances are the person who speaks English isn't a construction worker but has in fact been hired purely for the purpose of helping volunteers. The cost of hiring an English speaking guide is probably more than the cost of one of two extra workers that would be doing the job you are going to do.... So just remember that you are probably less useful than you think. By no means am I saying don't volunteer.... but be willing to pay the wages of the people who have to be there to support you!

More post-English lesson games!

3. Remember all the other costs.....
There seem to be huge amounts of paperwork that need to be completed for the Vietnamese government EVERYtime a new person comes to volunteer. Or an old person comes back a second time. This adds a lot of admin time as well as various fees.

Plus you must have found out about the volunteering opportunity somehow - do they advertise? do they run a website? all these things cost money.

My point is:
Volunteering is an amazing experience. You will learn so much about other cultures, your own culture, yourself. You will be helpful to the place you go and you will help make kids happy and healthy. You will gain new skills and probably have an amazing holiday/volunteer-iday that you will never forget! I would 100% recommend that if you think you would like to volunteer - GO FOR IT!

But do it right - Be willing to pay for the people who you need to support you.

 (but be wary of how much you're being asked to pay - and is that going into the pockets of some big company based in America, or Australia or where ever.... Or is it going to local people and to pay for the things you need - in country support may mean people with you all the time and who are also helping out themselves - changing nappies, doing therapy. Or the option to phone someone who sits in a office all day whenever you need help.).

Should I travel Solo in Vietnam?

I am spending 9 months living in Vietnam and Cambodia and volunteering.... most of it on my own. As a result when I meet other people and they realise that I am alone, they constantly go on about how brave I am... or how risky it is to travel alone etc. etc.

I really annoys me. Because if I was male, no one would care that I was travelling alone.  Now don't worry.... this isn't going to be a rant about how women can do anything men can do better....  I just want to make women who have been listening to those doubtful people know - IT IS FINE!

Travelling alone fear #1 walking alone

Yeah, it is true... I don't go out walking alone at night time in dodgy streets or alleyways. Not in Danang where I live, not when I am travelling to other towns. But here's a secret.... I don't go out walking alone late at night in Australia!
 

I don't walk around particularly poor areas any time of the day with my flashy expensive camera out, or waving my phone around either. But this is honestly just common sense! and anyone who is going to attack you if you happened to walk past them alone, is probably just as likely to attack you if you were with another person anyway. So just be sensible and don't walk around at 2am drunk as a skunk in dodgy suburbs. Easy..

If you are worried about being alone, stick with the busy parts of town. Don't stress too much though, people in Vietnam have a sleep in the middle of the day. Which means at 10 or 11pm there are often still plenty of people (even kids!) out on the streets. Many shops don't close until 9pm, so if you are worried about being able to go out for dinner... it will be fine!

If you are walking along late at night, you might have men come up to you offering all sorts of things. Usually to drive you to a party club, or drugs. Just say no and if they keep talking loudly say GET AWAY (say it calmly, don't scream it though!). This has always worked for me. If you half heartedly say no, worried about offending, they will think this means you actually want it - and keep harassing. In fact the only time in 9 months of solo travel that I felt slightly nervous was when I did go out at night, and stayed out until far later than I had intended. As my hotel was only at the end of the street and there were people close by I felt fine to walk alone. half way along the street four or five men were getting far too close to me, they were just trying to offer moto rides home, drugs and god knows what else. But when I firmly said no, get away from me, they left me alone.

Also, when walking along, smile at people and say hello (or xin chao). Don't avoid looking at anyone for fear they might attack.... just enjoy it. Plus, if you are being friendly and smiling and saying hello to people.... and anything bad does happen - from someone robbing you to falling down a hole. Someone is going to come help! They liked you, they want to help. If you avoid looking at them and try to be assertive and aggressive.... much less likely to come to your aid!

Thinking realistically. Yes, there are probably men here who would, given the chance, rape or rob someone alone. Just like in any other country. But most of them are smart enough not to target tourists. That is going to cause a hellava stink. Police and international agencies sniffing around. Vietnam has only recently stopped the death penalty for rape of adults in Vietnam. But I am thinking a long stint in prison here is not going to be pleasant.... and death penalty as unreported to international organisations is always a potential. So any potential rapist is going to prefer to target someone less likely to have the means to hunt them down. Probably poor local women. I know that sounds harsh and terrible. But honestly, that's the truth. Most scams focus on getting you to part willingly with your money, or taking it with you never seeing them - these crimes are unlikely to be reported to police, and if so very hard to track. Anything more serious though will be taken very seriously, and is likely to end very poorly for the person in question.

Travelling alone fear #2, I'll get ripped off

Why? why are you more likely to get ripped off? You are just as able to research the average price of things as anyone else. Yes, maybe because you are alone (male or female), people will try to charge you more. But honestly I have heard more from big groups about all their problems with overcharging than from solo travellers. This fear is definitely not justified!

Travelling alone fear #4 - I'll get mugged

alright, if you are alone (man or woman) you are potentially more likely than a group to get robbed. Maybe.

But again - just use common sense. If you have a handbag, keep it tucked in close to you or under you jacket. Don't dangle it from you arm or leave it in your bike basket. 

Don't put things down on the table at a cafe without holding them. e.g. leaving you DSLR sitting on the table while you eat.... that's just asking for it to get stolen! 

Don't advertise all the great things you have. - Yes, use your good camera to take awesome photos... but instead of then walking around with it dangling from your neck.... just tuck it back in that bag. If you are going to use a phone... maybe leave the iphone at home and bring a old phone (ask around, I am sure someone you know has an old, phone with a cracked screen or something).

All these tips.... Are really the same things you would be doing in London, or Sydney or anywhere else to avoid having your holiday ruined. So don't stress about travelling to Asia.

Travelling alone fear #4 - actually, I don't even know?

Um, I am out of ideas.... comment any fears you might have??

Other tips

Clothes

Vietnam is a progressive country, it isn't somewhere that women are hidden away and made to wear covers in public. In fact at some of the more popular modern cities women do wear tight or revealing clothes or bikinis.

However, it is still conservative and if you walk around in a mini skirt or tiny pants.... people will see that as being provocative. you might get more comments or leers than you would if you dress modestly! Yes, in some places they have huge numbers of tourists and are used to bikinis and singlets. But in rural areas wear a t shirt and decent pants and you will be fine.

Please PLEASE if you go to a temple or pagoda. YOU MUST wear pants or a skirt longer than you knees (or fully long for men) and clothes that cover your shoulders. To bare excessive skin is so hugely rude and it really makes me cringe every time I see tourists walking around in mini skirts and singlets in a pagoda.

So please, don't be that douchebag! If you think you might go to a pagoda, just take a scarf to cover up.

Comments

Sometimes, while walking along I have groups of boys yell comments from the back of a bike. unlike the crude comments you might get in Australia though, these are usually more like: I love you, you are beautiful etc. So don't get yourself in a tiz about some kids having a laugh.... just laugh it off and keep going! Even better - learn how to respond in a not rude, but funny way in Vietnamese. This will give everyone a laugh and definitely ease the tension.

Tours
If you are unsure - you might find yourself constantly worrying and so not enjoying yourself as much as you should! in that case the whole trip could be ruined. So maybe do think about heading out with an organised tour. You won't have to stress about being alone, you will get to meet lots of new people (some you might even make lasting friendships with.... others I bet you will wish didn't exist). Or if groups tours are not your thing.... I know they are not my thing - I honestly can't think of a worse way to travel! Try the easy riders around Vietnam. They are motorbike riders who do private tours, you can go alone or in a group and because you are pillion passenger (or rider if you are able) on a bike there is no extra cost for being alone (unlike those group tours!). You get to pick where you want to go, and what you want to see, but they will be able to offer some great ideas and itinerary suggestions. It is just as safe as getting into any taxi or hotel - in all cases you need to trust the person. Check out my other post on here about the Easyrider tours, specifically Mr Uyen who I have travelled with on a number of occasions.

Also check out my post of common scams - this can offer some more information about what risks you might have in Vietnam and how to avoid!

Minority Villages

So, you've come to Vietnam.
You've spent time in cities and towns along the tourist trail and you think, I want to see what life is like in the minority villages.

This leads to a dilemma.....

Any traditional minority village is going to be hard to get to, no buses or tours go there. People won't speak English (and possibly not Vietnamese) and you wont find a range of hotels to suit all budgets and tastes.
If tours and buses did go there - chances are it will soon morph into a tourist trap. While it is unfortunate, my experience has been that once people in (SOME) minority villages learn that there is money to be had from tourists..... they stop farming, and set up a shop filled with the same mass produced scarfs, wooden carvings, and kid sized "traditional outfits"  that you can buy in Hanoi, HCMC, and Hoi an to your hearts content.

The bad.....

One such example is in the highlands near Buon Ma Thout. This area is a hot spot for minority villages, as they all tend to be in the highland areas. I believe it is called Ban Don Village (and famous for an elephant king who captured 100's of elephants during his life).
I was expecting a quiet little village with people going about their day. I was travelling with a group of Buon Ma thout locals - so hopeful that we could get talking to a villager and maybe even invited in for tea, I could do some photography.... all in all my imagined village was beautiful.
I found something more like disneyworld than a village.

The main street is lined with houses-turned-into-shops As you walk you are constantly called to look in this shop, that shop, buy this "local made" - no, it's not.
Then we bought an entrance ticket to walk along bamboo walkways (which were quite pleasant as they wound around through tree branches and over a wide cool river - but wasn't really minority village-y!). Which lead to an island with more shops, a restaurant, a stage with very loud music that seemed to vary from "traditional performances" to karaoke and elephant rides.

All in all it was a tourist trap!
So - absolutely do your research, and if it seems that multiple companies are doing tours to one place - be suspicious, if buses are turning up on regular occasions..... chances are the town has turned into a tourist machine.

The Good......

Lak Lake. About 1 hour from Buon Ma Thout and on the way to Dalat is beautiful.
You are able to stay overnight in long houses for about $5 per person (phone Mr Duc at the Cafe Duc Mai - right outside the village, on 0905371633). You house will have a basic mattress on the ground with moquito net. And toilets and showers are available at the cafe. They also do set menus for lunch and dinner at a very reasonable price. Breakfast is served.... but was basic eggs on bread style.

There are a couple of souvenir shops down near the lake, but for the most part the villagers are going about their everyday, ignoring tourists. It was a great chance to walk around the village and watch people doing everyday job (like chopping up banana trees to feed to the pigs, or walking the cows out to pasture) without being hassled to buy anything.

Plus, it is possible to get a bus from Dalat or Buon Ma Thout!

Anywhere else?

I will update as I find more places that are accessible and not tourist traps. But the otherway you can get to see minority villages is to take a private tour (car based if you are a group of people, easy riders for one or two are cheapest) and tell them you want to see villages and minority areas.

Easy Riders

If you have read much about how to get around Vietnam..... Chance are you have come across the easy riders.

What is this?

Easy riders are motorbike based tours to anywhere!
Originally, "Easy Rider" was a company name. This original easy riders actually dissolved and split into a number of other groups. So there is no single "original easy rider". The problem then becomes that we have potentially hundreds of individuals or groups of guides calling themselves easy rider, and it is almost impossible to work out which one is which when you are reading reviews on trip advisor!

This is made more difficult by the fact that trip advisor doesn't easily accept multi-day travel companies onto their site (you have to make sure you put "private tours" into the name of the attraction) so lots of people have reviewed an easy rider on trip advisor.... but under the wrong section or company name. ARGH!

So, use trip advisor to try to find someone who seems good, but pay more attention to the names of guides or any reviews that supply you with a direct email or phone number, because they might not be reviewing the same company as the heading suggests!

Should I use them?

Absolutely!

Yes, it is more expensive than getting a bus or train from point a to point b. But most E.R.s will take you through back roads and countrysides instead of just trundling along the  highway. You can choose to do a round trip (some easyriders will have a discount if you start and end in the same or very close cities)- plus this would mean you can leave most luggage with them or a hotel and only carry a backpack. Or you can go one way for as long as you want. So you can see the countryside and get to your nexxt destination.

They stop at various farms and explain the process of making rubber/pepper/coffee/rice wine/ whatever you happen to pass. You can also stop at local cafes and talk to locals with a translator. I found, because of my white skin and red hair, locals were always starting conversations with the guide (where is she from, how old is she, look how white her skin is). So if you learn how to say your age and where you are from..... everyone will be very entertained! Plus they tend to know the secret local spots - we went to a beautiful hot springs one day for a swim and a soak, just a quite pool in the middle of nowhere, not some giant resort like most hot springs I have seen.

These tours are totally custom, and tailored to your interests - so make sure you tell them what you want! Plus, motorbikes only take one passenger anyway - so as a solo traveller you wont be paying more for the tour! - hurrah!!!!

Also great if you are short on time, am easy rider trip means you spend the day getting from a to b, but with so much site seeing on the way. This jotted far more efficient than getting a bus to the town, then organising taxis or tours to the sites you want to see.

How?

Just find someone you think you like.... then email of phone. If you are staying in a city for a few days, try to arrange to meet them for coffee to discuss tour options. Then, if you don't like the vibe, or think you wont click.... just dont book with them. I haven't had any issues, and I know they would always try to make you feel comfortable - but spending 8 days sitting behind, talking to, and eating all your meals with someone you don't really get on with -> that wont be so fun!

Remember, the more you tell them about what you want to do, or are interested in seeing, the better they can make the tour.

Maybe you are a war buff, and even though you think, it's not the dmz, so there wont be anything interesting...... TELL THEM. chances are, they had an uncle or father or brother or themselves fought in the war and they can tell you interesting stories. Or take you to some out of the way museum or site of particular importance - they may be totally boring to other tourists (so usually they would avoid) but you will love it!

Maybe you don't care so much about museums and beaches and just want to talk with local people. They can stop off at houses of people they know will be happy to talk with a foreigner, or linger at the sweet corn stall after you buy a snack so you can introduce yourself and have a talk.

What do I need to do?

Basically nothing, The tour price includes accommodation costs and often entry into sites along the way (although, some won't cover the cost of entry prices.... which leaves you free to decide for yourself what you do and dont want to see). All you have to do is relax and take in the sights! You guide will also find a quality local restaurant and eat with you.... so no worries about being ripped off there either!

Tips
Some people take advantage of the outside travel to work on their tan and wear bikini or boob tubes. This is craziness to me! But each to their own. Please do think about where you are going and ask the driver. If you ate heading into small villages our really isn't acceptable to wear minimal clothes!

I actually found, to avoid sunburn the best possibly thing is to get your guide to take you to buy one of the light long sleeve shirts locals wear. When the bike is moving the wind keeps it plenty cool enough, and the shirts have special flaps that cover your hands to stop your fingers getting sun burnt! Seems crazy, but i hoi sunburn fingers on my first multi day trip. It isn't fun! As a red head who gets sunburnt way too easily i actually went for long pants too.... back of the calf sunburn when you ate diving away from the sun  - also unpleasant!

The face masks are also very useful for keeping dust and insects out of your throat!

If you are interested in the detailed story of my 4 days with Mr Uyen  go here: http://physio-overboard.blogspot.com/2014/03/adventures-to-country.html

Mr Uyen - Easy Rider based in Danang / Hoi An
get his details here: http://uyeneasyrider.blogspot.com/