Mai Chau

Mai Chau,
About a 4 hour drive from Hanoi, with peaceful rolling green rice fields, slightly awkward traditional dance performances an abundance of scarves and bamboo products for purchase and plenty of peace and quiet.

I was afraid that Mai Chau would be a hectic, Disneyland-esk "minority village". Happily it seems to be a place that has learnt to supplement their farming incomes with the tourist dollar while avoiding the horrible, pushy sales tactics of some of the other tourist markets. In fact, while we walked through one of the villages in which every house has a shop below it we were able to browse within a number of stalls without being followed, questioned or told to "buy this" "very good price" "cheap for you" or any of the other cash cries that usually abound in tourist markets.

This post does read a little like an add for Mai Chau Nature Place (MCNP).... Not my intention, but that's where I stayed, ate and got entertained!

Getting there
Local buses - consult locals for up to date info, time tables and price. but know that these leave from a bus station a fair way outside of Hanoi, will take a lot longer and may be full of travel sick Vietnamese people. But, it will be cheaper!!!

Transfer bus.
These can be booked through virtually any hotel or tourist agency in the city. Our hotel quoted us 12usd each person each way. The transfers is in a mini bus with one of the tour groups.

Small group tours
Mai Chau nature place seemed to be the most common tour. All hotels and booking agencies offer tours, but many of them are the same itineraries. We opted for the $70 per person tour, which included a private room without aircon, all transfers, meals and activities. I think this worked out to be the cheapest option - I usually dislike group travel where you have to all trek around together, but this was actually really enjoyable, and people had the freedom to do their own thing.

Sleeping
There is an abundance of "home stays" available in Mai Chau and the surrounding villages. These looked more like dorms in stilt houses, I am not sure how involved the family actually are, if they stay in the same area and socialize or not. My understanding is that home stays can be arranged for around $10/night/person.

A few hotels are in the town itself, though I am told that cleanliness varies greatly.

Mai Chau nature place has a few bungalows and a dorm room outside of any of the villages.It is an easy walk into Mai Chau centre or the small minority villages and is on a tiny little lane that cars can't drive down. So peace and quiet from the traffic of Hanoi was one of our highlights.
The dorm at the Mai Chau nature place was clean looking, it featured mosquito nets over the beds and also curtains for privacy. They had single and double mattresses available in the dorm and there seemed to be reasonable space between beds. Because it is up on stilts and quite open it was cool at night, even in the summer. People who slept there told us they didn't even need to use their fan in mid August.
We stayed in the bungalow at Mai Chau nature place. We had booked the cheaper rooms, which we were told had fans only, but when we arrived were shown the room with aircon. Not sure if this was to keep our whole tour group together in one area, or if the other rooms were full. It wasn't too hot, but the room's had few opening windows, and is lower than the stilt house so it doesn't get the breeze... so we needed that aircon! The room was really large, had a queen and single bed, chairs, huge bathroom and balcony. Plus a great view. If you wanted somewhere to relax, slow down and have some privacy for a few days I would definitely recommend.

We also were entertained by a traditional dancing show, my understanding it that a lot of the home stays also put on these slightly awkward dance shows. They did get everyone up and joining in the bamboo ankle smashing dance, which had everyone laughing and clapping along!

Food
Our tour included all food, so life was easy! A couple of other people were staying in the dorm apart from the tour, I overheard them getting their bill and all lunches and dinners were 150K VND per meal. Not sure of the breakfast cost.
There were a couple of places BBQing up skewers of meat in the village, and a few local restaurants in Mai Chau itself, but don't be too disappointed if you cant find a western style restaurant!

Ok, I'm here.... now what can I do?
Bike riding
Mai Chau was beautiful to ride around in the late afternoon. Flat land and country lanes made cycling a breeze and the views were stunning! We went to a lake where locals swim (the water is pretty icy, but it looked beautiful. I didn't have swimmers as I assumed there wouldn't be anywhere to swim!). Where ever you decide to stay I am sure they will provide or draw maps to show you great places to cycle, and how to get back!

traditional clothes hire 
For a bit of a laugh, you can hire traditional outfits in the village. I believe it was a dollar per clothing item to hire them for the afternoon. a group of girls on our tour had a hilarious looking photo shoot in traditional clothing!

Climb up the 1000 step cave
We were told it was in fact 1200 steps... I didn't count, I was busy trying to breathe! It was a good, satisfying climb up those damn steps in a cave. The view at the top was actually blocked by the trees a lot. You get glimpses down into the valley, but avid photographers might expect a lot more after climbing 1200 steps!
The cave is.... cave-ish. really, nothing mazingly spectacular if you have been in many caves before. But head over to the back left, there is actually a path (complete with hand rail) that loops further back into cave. You will need some sort of light because it gets far enough from the entrance to be dark and the ground is slippery. Exploring this dark part of the cave was much more fun for us..... but for some reason that wasn't explained the guide from MCNP yelled at us to come back. So I dunno what that was about.

 I didn't partake of, but understand that you can also arrange treks to villages that are further out, rock climbing, motorbiking to a lake, and trips from here on to Cuc Phuong national park if you so desire.

Tailors of Hoi An (getting clothes that fit perfectly!)

I could have included this in the Hoi An post......  but there is such a lot to say about tailors in Hoi An (and other places too!) that I thought it warrants it's own post!

Starting with my experience in Hoi An, which is the most popular place to get clothes made.... and so has tailors on every single street!

My absolute 100% recommendation is Xuan -- 27 Hoang Dieu st. Hoi An

Xuan (right) with my boyfriend in clothes she made and her staff

Why do I recommend her?

Firstly, she isn't pushy. If you want to come in and look around, then you walk away - I have never seen her follow anyone, or yell out for them to buy stuff, or start asking millions of somewhat harassing questions.... You will see what I mean when you walk around or past any of the other tailors!

Her prices are really good! The more you buy, the bigger the discount that you get. And we kind of bought a lot..... So I can't really give figures of how much for any one item (plus, it depends on design, fabric etc etc).

But another couple that I ran into in her shop (after meeting them in Hue and giving them her card) told me that they got quotes for 3 piece men's suits at another shop..... and hers were half the price!

Honesty

This falls into the great pricing part (personally I don't haggle with her.... especially when I bought heaps because I know the discount was already there!). Also honesty in how you look...... You see, One of the items I bought was a tight "wiggle dress". It is meant to the form fitting.... but Xuan was honest enough to insist on letting it out just a tiny little bit (so it didn't stick quite so much to my curves) which made it look WAYYYY better! Even though this meant more work for herself as it was another alteration!

Quality and longevity 

I know people who have used Xuan for their tailoring needs for 8+ years. This ranges from suits, to formal dresses, everyday wear and work pants for her husband. Nothing has broken before it's reasonable life span. Nothing has shrunk, or fallen apart, no seams popped!

I Haven't had time to try out my big load of shopping.... but I have been wearing two shirts that I bought in May more or less continuously for the last three months and for two of those months I was hand washing them and wringing them out quite forcefully! They are in perfect condition despite my mistreatment!  

Summary - definitely head to Xuan and have a chat! if you don't see fabrics you like immediately describe what you want and she will do her best to find it! Take photos or download them off the net too, she has wifi at her shop so you can email her the photos and get exactly what you want!

Other tailors I know of or have used:

Swim wear

Unfortunately Xuan doesn't make swimwear :( So I had to search elsewhere for a tailor who did).

I asked at a few of the shops along the same road. Most showed me the fabric options which was a jersey knit. They didn't seem to have Lycra. Watch out for this, Jersey knit is very stretchy, and yes it feels light. But it wil get more waterlogged than lycra and is likely too stretchy, meaning when wet it has the risk of stretching more and dragging down, and as it ages it can stretch out - no body likes daggy bum swim-wear!

The girls at shop 47 Hoang Dieu were able to help. They don't actually make swimwear themselves but one of the ladies put me on the back of their bike and whizzed me to her "sister" who does. (nb, seeing as the woman didn't seem to know much about this apparent sister - like if the sign about car hire is the same shop, I think the relationship might not be so close :P). The first tailor did the price negotiating. She quoted me $40 and I negotiated to $30, which for a two piece swimsuit seemed fairly generous to me (but still cheap compared to Aus, and I tend to fear bargaining too hard for risk of items being made very cheap and breaking!).

This woman did had a few pairs of swimmers hanging up around the shop, and big bins full of lycra. I showed her photos that I had, we worked together to sketch up what I like, and picked out colours. The only difficulty is that she doesn't speak English.... So you need to go via another shop like I did, or take a translator, or take good pictures and a dictionary! 

I really like the togs that I got made. They are pretty perfect, but I wanted the back strap to be tighter and the tailor talked me out of it. Later I looked again and I really do need that strap tighter! So I will just have to do it myself when I get home. This sort of talking you out of changes so that they don't have to make alterations really put me off them! I also noted that the woman who actually made the swimmers was paid only $17, the tailor said she paid her some the day before as well..... but I was in the room the whole time and didn't see any money change hands! 

Lucky Number

This tailor is up out of the old town a little. On Hai Ba Trung st.
In January I was in Hoi An with a friend and she wanted to get some clothes made so we went here.
I initially got a "play suit" style thing made. However as they gathered the pants instead of pleating like in the picture they looked like clown pants! seriously, it was terrible. We negotiated and turned it into a dress instead, much less clowny.
I was really happy with it initially, however I has washed it only twice. The first time the zip busted, but I was able to get it working again.

I also believe it shrunk in the wash as it got extra tight! The next time I washed it it seemed fine, but now the zip has actually torn so cannot be used at all. Basically they used poor quality zips and stitched it poorly so it cut into the zip and caused it to tear.
The difficulty here is that when you receive the items it seems fine, it is only after you go home and start wearing that they break!

I also got some pants made. These I said I think they need to be tighter and there was a lot of space in the waist band..... they explained in various ways why this shouldn't happen and got me convinced that it is fine...... but it isn't. they are far too large, and fall off. Personally I vote, don't buy clothes here.... they are expensive (at least compared to Xuan), and don't do the alterations well enough to get a good fit!

These are my experiences with tailors.  Limited, yes..... but once I fond Xuan I really had no motivation to go elsewhere! When I have more time I will chat with other people I know have spent plenty of time here and add their experience!

Sapa

General Impressions
The scenery around Sapa is stunning. Terraced rice fields and mountains as far as the eye can see. Indigo clad women sitting on the side of the road selling peaches, buffalo, fabrics. Sapa is a great relief from the heat in summer (but on weekends in the summer Sapa will be very busy with local tourists).
Sapa is however a place that has become a tourist mecca. Every second building is a hotel and every person is a tourist guide or "original hand made" whatever saleswoman. (funnily enough they all have the same "original hand made bags", the same pattern, the same colours, the same exact design...... in fact, it looks just like something that would be made in a factory in China for very cheap.

Where I stayed
Kenpass hotel
I do not recommend! The room was clean, though the hot water was more... tepid rather than hot.
The main memory I have of this hotel was washing to yelling at 4.30am
It would seem they allow Vietnamese tourists to book one room for entire families. The family who for some reason were leaving at 4.30 in the morning had at least 4 adults and 3 kits in the one room. This leads to a major increase in noise levels! Now, normally I wouldn't blame a hotel floor other guests being noisy. But it is obviously due to the over stocking off rooms. Also, it took around 45 minutes of yelling for this family to finally get the hell out of the hotel. Their voices were echoing through the whole hotel. At no time did any staff come and tell them to keep it down.
Secondly, the rooms have large glass windows on the doors. They have made a half hearted attempt at privacy by putting some sheer curtains up. The hotel staff then disregard this privacy by looking at us through the gap in the curtain at 6.30am. I was lying in bed and looked up to see a man looking into our room. I have no idea what his deal was. But that is unacceptable, especially when I realized he was staff.
It is in a temptingly central location, and it is cheap.... but the location losses points because it is actually directly opposite the concert park..... and Vietnamese people like their concerts loud!

Trekking
If you go to sapa, doing some sort of trekking is pretty much mandatory. We trekked with Sapa OChau. I would say that your trekking experience is absolutely dependent on your guide. And to be honest, ours wasn't really all that talkative! Actually, just outside of town a young man (turns out he was her husband) met us and walked with us. He didn't speak any English and our guide spent most of the trek walking and talking with him.
Where we spent the night a group from Sapa Sisters was also staying. Next time I would trek with them! She was talkative, informative and social. Definitely more fun!

Bac ha markets
If you are around on a weekend, the Sunday Bac ha markets are worth the trip! To get there from Sapa you have to go back through Lai Chau so it is actually easier to get the train from Hanoi Saturday night and bus to Bac Ha as soon as you arrive, or get the train back from Sapa Sunday night and just ask the tour bus to drop you at the train station on their way back to Sapa. If that doesn't work for you though, you can do a day trip from Sapa to Bac Ha and back again. Every hotel and tour agency has a version of the tour, I am pretty sure that they are all the same (and prices do vary) so it might be worth asking around.

The markets here are a major event, people come from many surrounding villages to buy and sell. Most minority people are dressed in traditional costumes so you can even compare that different groups. Make sure to walk up the hill at the back to also see the animal market!
The Bac ha market is full of women trying to force Chinese made bags/souvenirs on you, which is a pity. But as soon as those markets are packed up you are free to walk around town or the country side totally harassment free! In fact we enjoyed walking around Bac Ha much much more than Sapa. While we walked we were totally ignored - except a few friendly people yelling hello!

There is a restaurant who organises treks and tours. And if I had my time again I would probably forgo Sapa and head straight to Bac Ha for trekking. Just for the sack of avoiding people constantly trying to sell us stuff! Plus, the trek near Bac Ha look like they would be much more devoid of tourists and touts!

Somehow, my friend and I seemed the have "No" pheromones. We got asked to buy things maybe twice while eating dinner, and when starting our trek a woman followed us for about 5 minutes. Then I said in Vietnamese. We will not buy anything, we are walking not buying. (I practices that line :P)
She then left.

We saw other tourists getting followed by groups of 6 or more women. Or getting asked repeatedly and harassed to buy things. Sometimes if you refuse they eventually start the sob stories.
Personally, I don't understand this technique. The more you follow me and get in my way, the more annoyed I am.... and the less likely to buy anything from you! But it must work or they wouldn't do it.
So Please don't give in and buy from a woman after 3 hours of being followed. If you want the bag either buy it straight away, or buy it from someone in a shop, or sitting down not harassing tourists. Don't encourage the following people to make a sale, or the disrupting people's meals.

popular traveler scams to avoid

So this guide to tourist scams is doing the rounds, and I thought I would add it here for your information.... and comment on a few that I have been privy to first hand!
Nothing is as bad as realizing later that you got scammed by someone - so read up before you go and avoid the hassle!

Be aware of the scams - but try not to be too defensive, or scared, or worried. Most people I come across (particularly outside tourist areas) are genuinely excited and interested to meet westerners. Lots want to practice their English and do just want to talk to you. Sure - be aware of what's going on... but be friendly, interact with people, learn a few words in Vietnamese and everyone will be VERY impressed and friendly. If you get too caught up in will-I-be-scammed fear you just wont be able to enjoy your holiday at all!

The friendship bracelet:
This is massive in Cambodia. Particularly the waterfront / street 172 in Phnom Penh. Mostly children trying to sell the bracelets while you are walking or eating. DO NOT BUY THESE! the poverty line in Cambodia is about $1 a day. So if people are paying kids 1 - 2 dollars for a bracelet - and I am sure more than one person would be..... why would that child ever give up the trade to go to school. The problem is the kids eventually get bigger, and are no longer cute. People stop buying the bracelets. The kids cant return to school even if they realise they should as they are too far behind. So instead they usually turn to crime.
DO NOT BUY STUFF FROM KIDS! either they are being trafficked specifically to sell things for a central person (because people pity kids and buy stuff they wouldn't buy from an adult), so in this case buying from them encourages this form of child trafficking and slavery. Or they keep the money and do not go to school.

Give your money to a REPUTABLE charity, or spend the extra dollars eating somewhere like friends, or purchasing gifts at a not for profit.



Women with rosemary:
This isn't limited to Madrid. All of Spain has these women! My brother and I were walking in Granada and were accosted by these women. They took us separately aside and told our fortunes (in rapid Spanish). We don't really look alike and it seems they assumed we were a couple... the fortune telling was awkward! And our sister in law is Spanish so we could understand enough to understand that we are apparently having 2 babies. Unlikely!
My brothers method was to learn the Spanish for "Get away devil woman."... and "witch" and yell that when they tried to grab him.
I learn how to say "but you said no money!"  (they always start by saying no money.... then after the fortune demand money) and let them go through the entire shabang - and when they start asking for money calmly say, but you said no money and give them back the rosemary. Our different methods entertained us and meant we almost hoped people came up and tried to scam us :P

The overnight bus
If you are going on ANY bus you should really not leave anything valuable in your luggage ever, and have padlocks on your bag. People are able to undo zips and then redo them up if the zips move around. So try to buy a bag that has the lock built in so the zips wont slide around when locked. Or sew a key ring into the bag, and put the padlock through this as well. But mostly, keep your valuables on your person and tuck them into bed with you!

Charity petition
We were accosted outside the Louvre in Paris and asked to donate money for the deaf mute society. They had a list of names, emails, and amounts donated. I have no idea if the people already listed were made up to make it look more real (and make you feel like you should donate 10-40 Euros like the people before you) or if other people were getting suckered. Just look a little closely, they had lanyards..... but the "ID cards" were just bits of paper. The thing you signed to get your receipt (they would send it later apparently) was very very badly photocopied, and the clip boards were pieces of cardboard.
Also, because they were deaf mute you couldn't question them!
Interestingly.... none knew sign language (I do!)

Milk scams
A woman with a tiny, thin, dirty baby (I swear, one I saw was actually a dirty doll!) will either be on the street and follow you / grab your arm. Or be sitting on the ground with the child on her lap. She will tell you she doesn't want money, just milk for her baby. She will point you to a shop where you can buy powdered or bottled milk (the powdered milk can be $20+) and once you are gone she will return the milk to the store and split the money with the shop keeper.
This scam also encourages women to keep their children dirty, thin and sick.

Taxi Scams 
be very wary of taxi's, particularly in Hanoi. ALWAYS ask your hotel how much it should cost for a taxi to where ever you are going. Use the meter and if it seems to high (usually the rigged meters will make it WAY high, like 2 or even 5 times higher than it should be) refuse to pay unless they phone your hotel to explain. The train station is the worst. We knew it cost 30 000 to get a taxi from the hotel, to the train station. On the return trip taxi drivers were quoting us 100 000 or more.
Some who saw us refusing and asking for meters were way to insistent that we get into their metered taxi (even though he was dirty, not in a uniform, and following us around shouting at us). We refused and kept walking until we found a calm, not shouty guy, with a meter.  It ended up costing us less than 30 000. Be patient, and don't get into the shouty man taxi!

The Green Taxi from "Mai Linh" and the white from "Vinasun" are good to use

The - I don't want to beg
In Cambodia I did become quite cynical. Particularly around people who would say (or have a sign that said) "I don't want to beg, please buy my book/bag/bracelet/whatever". Often they were disabled or old people. I also found that these were often outrageously expensive compared to any other person or place selling the same thing. Sometimes when you said, no I don't want that. they would rely with, well how about $1.
And I constantly saw people giving these people money without purchasing anything (the same 2 were always on the street I lived on for a month). One would even say his bags were made by a local orphanage and he sold them for the orphanage and the orphanage fixed the price at $5 (they were like, a change bag size, and really bad quality). When we didn't want it he told us that it costs him $5 for a bed for the night and he has nowhere to sleep can we buy one so he can sleep. The stories kept going on and on. So yeah, I am very suspicious of the I don't want to beg.... but if you don't something i sure will people!

The take my fruit ladies
Hanoi is full of women walking around selling fruit from baskets attached to a pole that goes over their shoulders. They will often walk up to you and shove the pole onto you, offer to take a photo - then demand money, or that you buy the fruit at a very high price.
Now - I often buy fruit from these women (because I like fruit)... but it is a good idea to ask someone how much it should cost. And, like always.... I personally refuse to buy anything from the ones who try to force me. Instead finding someone calm and respectful.
Of course - other tourists love the chance to have photos of themselves carrying the baskets - and that's fine if you want to. But do be aware you will probably be made to pay (or purchase) so ask how much a pineapple should cost first :P

Sapa followers 
Many women in traditional dress simply follow you around in Sapa. Personally, I don't really care if someone follows me for 4 hours - I am not going to then pity them and buy stuff. Especially seeing as I didn't engage during those four hours. But it must work to wear some people down or surely they wouldn't bother!
most of what they have to sell is cheap imports from China, not things made in their village. And once you buy one time.... you are marked to all the other women as someone who will buy. So maybe wait until the end of the trip if you really really want that scarf or whatever!

Copy cat hotels
I got tricked into breakfasting at the copy cat Queen hotel in Ninh Binh. Instead of what is apparently the best banana pancakes in Vietnam... I probably had the worst!
Be very wary of people waiting at the train station to lead to you the hotel. Likely they will lead you somewhere else.
 And if you are going in a taxi, know the address, and double check when you arrive. If it is the wrong street - show them..... then if they insist. Simply refuse to pay. They will tell you the hotel has moved, or is full and this is the sister hotel, or has shut down. but I would much rather go to the actual address (besides - I have booked and the hotel is actually full.....  then that hotel can pay for the taxi to the new one!).


But please note
In Buddist countries giving to the poor or disadvantaged is very usual. As is purchasing things (at reasonable prices, and when they don't harass) from people with disabilities. Many will sell lottery tickets, which isn't much use for tourists. But also fans, cards and bottles of water. As long as you have an idea of what these items should cost. Or you feel like the person is genuinely making a living from selling things - please please do buy from them! Hoi An has many people selling cards and fans - I personally refuse to buy anything from children ever (please see above re: schooling), but I do but cards and fans from various people with disabilities.