Tailors of Hoi An (getting clothes that fit perfectly!)

I could have included this in the Hoi An post......  but there is such a lot to say about tailors in Hoi An (and other places too!) that I thought it warrants it's own post!

Starting with my experience in Hoi An, which is the most popular place to get clothes made.... and so has tailors on every single street!

My absolute 100% recommendation is Xuan -- 27 Hoang Dieu st. Hoi An

Xuan (right) with my boyfriend in clothes she made and her staff

Why do I recommend her?

Firstly, she isn't pushy. If you want to come in and look around, then you walk away - I have never seen her follow anyone, or yell out for them to buy stuff, or start asking millions of somewhat harassing questions.... You will see what I mean when you walk around or past any of the other tailors!

Her prices are really good! The more you buy, the bigger the discount that you get. And we kind of bought a lot..... So I can't really give figures of how much for any one item (plus, it depends on design, fabric etc etc).

But another couple that I ran into in her shop (after meeting them in Hue and giving them her card) told me that they got quotes for 3 piece men's suits at another shop..... and hers were half the price!

Honesty

This falls into the great pricing part (personally I don't haggle with her.... especially when I bought heaps because I know the discount was already there!). Also honesty in how you look...... You see, One of the items I bought was a tight "wiggle dress". It is meant to the form fitting.... but Xuan was honest enough to insist on letting it out just a tiny little bit (so it didn't stick quite so much to my curves) which made it look WAYYYY better! Even though this meant more work for herself as it was another alteration!

Quality and longevity 

I know people who have used Xuan for their tailoring needs for 8+ years. This ranges from suits, to formal dresses, everyday wear and work pants for her husband. Nothing has broken before it's reasonable life span. Nothing has shrunk, or fallen apart, no seams popped!

I Haven't had time to try out my big load of shopping.... but I have been wearing two shirts that I bought in May more or less continuously for the last three months and for two of those months I was hand washing them and wringing them out quite forcefully! They are in perfect condition despite my mistreatment!  

Summary - definitely head to Xuan and have a chat! if you don't see fabrics you like immediately describe what you want and she will do her best to find it! Take photos or download them off the net too, she has wifi at her shop so you can email her the photos and get exactly what you want!

Other tailors I know of or have used:

Swim wear

Unfortunately Xuan doesn't make swimwear :( So I had to search elsewhere for a tailor who did).

I asked at a few of the shops along the same road. Most showed me the fabric options which was a jersey knit. They didn't seem to have Lycra. Watch out for this, Jersey knit is very stretchy, and yes it feels light. But it wil get more waterlogged than lycra and is likely too stretchy, meaning when wet it has the risk of stretching more and dragging down, and as it ages it can stretch out - no body likes daggy bum swim-wear!

The girls at shop 47 Hoang Dieu were able to help. They don't actually make swimwear themselves but one of the ladies put me on the back of their bike and whizzed me to her "sister" who does. (nb, seeing as the woman didn't seem to know much about this apparent sister - like if the sign about car hire is the same shop, I think the relationship might not be so close :P). The first tailor did the price negotiating. She quoted me $40 and I negotiated to $30, which for a two piece swimsuit seemed fairly generous to me (but still cheap compared to Aus, and I tend to fear bargaining too hard for risk of items being made very cheap and breaking!).

This woman did had a few pairs of swimmers hanging up around the shop, and big bins full of lycra. I showed her photos that I had, we worked together to sketch up what I like, and picked out colours. The only difficulty is that she doesn't speak English.... So you need to go via another shop like I did, or take a translator, or take good pictures and a dictionary! 

I really like the togs that I got made. They are pretty perfect, but I wanted the back strap to be tighter and the tailor talked me out of it. Later I looked again and I really do need that strap tighter! So I will just have to do it myself when I get home. This sort of talking you out of changes so that they don't have to make alterations really put me off them! I also noted that the woman who actually made the swimmers was paid only $17, the tailor said she paid her some the day before as well..... but I was in the room the whole time and didn't see any money change hands! 

Lucky Number

This tailor is up out of the old town a little. On Hai Ba Trung st.
In January I was in Hoi An with a friend and she wanted to get some clothes made so we went here.
I initially got a "play suit" style thing made. However as they gathered the pants instead of pleating like in the picture they looked like clown pants! seriously, it was terrible. We negotiated and turned it into a dress instead, much less clowny.
I was really happy with it initially, however I has washed it only twice. The first time the zip busted, but I was able to get it working again.

I also believe it shrunk in the wash as it got extra tight! The next time I washed it it seemed fine, but now the zip has actually torn so cannot be used at all. Basically they used poor quality zips and stitched it poorly so it cut into the zip and caused it to tear.
The difficulty here is that when you receive the items it seems fine, it is only after you go home and start wearing that they break!

I also got some pants made. These I said I think they need to be tighter and there was a lot of space in the waist band..... they explained in various ways why this shouldn't happen and got me convinced that it is fine...... but it isn't. they are far too large, and fall off. Personally I vote, don't buy clothes here.... they are expensive (at least compared to Xuan), and don't do the alterations well enough to get a good fit!

These are my experiences with tailors.  Limited, yes..... but once I fond Xuan I really had no motivation to go elsewhere! When I have more time I will chat with other people I know have spent plenty of time here and add their experience!

Hue

Staying
DMZ
I stayed 2 nights at the DMZ hotel - booked through Agoda.com for about $15AUD each night.
When I arrived I was told that as they were very busy and most rooms were full - I have been upgraded to the deluxe "city view" room. I am not sure what exactly made it "deluxe.... maybe that it had a computer in the room? maybe the normal rooms don't have windows? But I got a window, and tiny balcony. The "city view" was more of the big ugly building opposite and nothing else.
The bed was comfortable enough, the bathroom worked and had a luxurious rain shower (although, the toilet was pressed against the shower glass and it was hard to fit!) and the whole room was clean.

hiding out from the midday heat I ordered room service once - prices were reasonable, and the food was actually really tasty (I had pasta) but there wasn't much food, next time I would get 2 courses.

What to do?
Bike ride
I most enjoyed riding a bike around the country-side. It is a very easy bike ride to the Thien Mu pagoda, where you can hop across the river on a boat (with your bike - bargain hard, these guys are much more ferocious boat drivers!). From the drop off point - TURN LEFT (the boat driver told me to ride right, which went against my judgement.... and in fact ended in me backtracking 2km to find the road! It is easy enough to ride to Tu Duc's mausoleum.

Tu Hieu Pagoda

On the way back to Hue, assuming you aren't completely over saturated with pagodas, stop off at Tu Hieu Pagoda. Set on a hill amongst pine forests it features beautiful ponds and gardens. Lovely cool spot to have a rest and sit and contemplate life.

If you want to take a packed lunch - hit up La Boulangerie Francese before you leave Hue. They take in orphans and street children and train them to bake traditional french style rolls and cakes. This is the only place I have had a decent cake!

Tombs

Tu Duc's tomb

I saw Tu Duc's tomb. This one is a pretty easy bike ride as above. I liked it, there a nice breeze, lots of wide open spaces and trees. These are all things I like. A few buildings - houses and theatres with old costumes, jeweled bonsai trees and random artifacts to look at. There is an island near the entrance with monkeys living on it.
For a few dollars you can dress up in imperial clothes and sit on the emperors throne.
There are many many tombs you can go see. I only went to the one (So far) and I feel the tours that visit all 8 would be long, expensive and tedious. But friends of mine visited 3 in a morning, and they enjoyed three - try to go to very varied ones though!

Citadel

Citadel at night during special event.

I saw the citadel at night during a special event, and it was stunning. In the daytime it is very, very hot. please go early morning or late afternoon.... otherwise you just won't be able to appreciate anything! Lots of stone and concrete to be bouncing sun off! but it's interesting, assuming you have an interest in old stuff.






Bars
For some reason, even though I don't like the drinking, partying, backpacker scene.... in Hue, I get into it. Well, I go to a bar I like, and if I meet fun people I might even keep going afterwards!
Hue backpackers Hostel - has a good bar, with good quality alcohol (No metho!) and good music, played at a volume which allows you to talk! The owner is an Aussie, and is often hanging out near the end of the bar. Lovely guy, great for a chat! They are also able to give advice and arrange tours, and I find they tend to give advice about all the ways to travel (e.g. here is the cost of local bus / train; here is a tour; here is a taxi price) rather than just pushing their own tours.
Plus, they have awesome food (I only tried the western food - it had been 3 months since I had a pizza! but I am sure their Vietnamese food is good too!), good cocktails, happy hours regularly, and giant jenga.
You can also participate in the duck egg challenge, or get a variety of favoured shots. Point is - everytime I have been there, I have had a good time!

Spa luxury
Evan - 4 pham ngu lao street
Know that spa services in Vietnam aren't for everyone. Privacy and inappropriate touching locations are not what you would get in a western spa! If you can't deal with getting undressed while someone stands next to you waiting and watching..... go to a fancy hotel with a more expensive spa!

I got the massage and body scrub. It wasn't perfect - I wanted the massage and mudwrap. But I ended up with a scrub and it was good. The woman had very, very strong hands and gave a good strong massage!
But there was a fair bit of one handed massage while texting someone. - I was also told by some friends who got massages later that they felt the massage was too soft, but I don't think any of them told their person the be harder.

But the massage was good, the scrub was nice, and I feel well pampered and soft! The spa has air-conditioning which was very needed! Lockers in the treatment room to store your handbag and very comfortable soft mattresses on the treatment beds.


Scams
Cyclo and motorbike taxi's are extremely persistent here! Much more than anywhere else I have been. However, if you politely say no once, then completely ignore them - or say Toi di Bo (I am walking). they lose interest. If one harrasses you - DO NOT GET IN IT! this just teaches them that if they harass and keep annoying you, you will give in.
I have also heard of people agreeing to go for a one hour cyclo ride around the city, assuming the ride would return to the original place, but instead finding themselves in the middle of nowhere, and the driver demanding more money to take you back. Either stay in the cyclo and refuse to give him more money - (assuming you were clear at the start that the tour would return to the same place). Of get out, and get some other mototaxi, or some other cyclo back. Please don't reward them for their lying and scheming!

Incense making village on the bike ride to Tu Duc's tomb 

Da Nang - more than just an airport

Da Nang seems to get skipped on most people's list of places to travel in Vietnam. Well, almost skipped. It is usually used as a convenient train station/airport, from which people get a taxi or bus to Hoi An.

This is unfair, because it actually has a reasonable amount to offer.

1. Da Nang is a great "local" city to visit. It is easy for visitors to get around and get whatever they need because many people speak at least a little English. Especially at the train station. Otherwise, I usually have no problem getting what I need with a tiny amount of Vietnamese and sign language. Because it doesn't have a huge tourist following (most of the foreigners here are doing business) you don't get harassed to buy things, or go into this or that restaurant constantly. Mostly, people just say hello and invite you in for a drink because they are genuinely interested and excited to see Westerners. In 3 months of living here - I have once been asked for money by a beggar / lottery ticket sales woman. The local council is actually very strict with beggars - but has available shelter and food for homeless people (If caught begging more than once people will be taken to the homeless shelter, regardless of whether or not they want to go there). Mostly people who are poor sell lottery tickets (they don't usually bother with Westerners because we don't know how the lottery works!) or collect rubbish to sell for recycling.

2. It is an easy visit on the way to such tourist sites as Hoi An and Hue (or, between these two sites!). The train from Hue to Da Nang or vis versa is 80 000 VND ($4) for soft air conditioned seats and about 3 hours of amazing scenery. The railway goes along the coast and is widely known as the most beautiful stretch of railway.

The local bus should be 20 000VND ($1) from Da Nang to Hoi An. Price does change, and I hate arguing about tiny amounts of money. So accept it if they ask for 30 000. but no more! they try to charge foreigners more on this stretch because they think they can get away with it. Don't let them! The bus people are paid by the company to be on the bus taking tickets - they will pocket the extra if you let them have it! So take exact change and only give them 20-30! Local bus can be caught from along Le duan street (look for the blue signs with a bus picture.

3. Sites
Dragon bridge
This bridge actually breathes fire and blows water out of it's mouth on Thursday and Saturday nights (Also I think sunday night as well?) at 9-9.30 (I was told it would be at 9pm. It didn't start until 9.30,, not sure if late that day or always at 9.30pm)

You can view this from either side of the river. This photo was taken from standing on the tail end of the river. You can also get quite close to the head end if you stay on that side! Even if it isn't breathing fire the bridge is beautiful at night when lit up with colour changing lights.

From the riverside (a beautiful walk featuring marble statues) you can also see the sail bridge, the Han bridge and the rainbow bridge - all of which light up at night with colour changing light shows.

Lady Buddha-              Towering over the north end of My Khe beach on the side of Monkey mountain this statue can be seen from miles away! She is well worth a trip up, just to get a feel for how big she really is! The pagoda also has an interesting garden with bonsai trees and smaller statues throughout.                                                   It can be very busy with tourist buses and large groups of people - but there is plenty of space!

Cham museum

If you are making time to go to My Son the Cham museum is worth a trip too. There are interesting photos of My Son before it was cleared of jungle and some of the best statues and sculptures were removed before the American war - thus have survived the bombing and gun fire that damaged a lot of the remaining statues. Information is presented in English (as plastic sheets you can pick up and read) and if I recall correctly it was only 20-50 000VND (I think 20). Cham Museum is located across the road from the tail of the dragon bridge.

Marble mountains

The marble mountains are to the south of town, on the way to Hoi An. If you do get a taxi you may as well as them to stop at the marble mountains. Tell the taxi you will be going onto Hoi An. He shouldn't charge you waiting time.... because if he doesn't wait it would be easy to get a new taxi anyway!

These mountains can be annoying when you get touted at constantly. However, if you are firm with a no (Khong - pronounced Kom) most of the people trying to sell incense, or marble, or whatever will leave you along. If you try to be "polite" by saying maybe later, or umming and ahhing -- they will remember and try you again later - much more insistently, or will keep pushing if you um and ahh.

Stairs up Marble Mountain

However, past the touts you get to climb many-many stairs, and discover various little caves and tunnels filled with statues and shrines. The largest of these were used as hospitals by the viet-cong during the war, even though at the base of the mountain was the US's biggest airbase! The mountain also features a pagoda and a number of lookouts. 

In the last few years an elevator has been added making it possible for those who are unable to walk up all the stairs to get to the top.  

My Khe beach

My Khe (or America beach) stretches more or less all the way from monkey mountain to Hoi An. The southern end is becoming covered with 5 star Chinese or Russian resorts.

 Happily, the parts of the beach near to the city will not become built up by resorts as the road runs along the side of the beach. This beach is by far my favourite in Vietnam (that I have been too!) I have never been annoyed by people trying to sell drinks or food while walking or relaxing on the beach (unlike other places). But there are drink stalls and deck chairs that you can rent to relax on. Early in the morning the beach is busy with locals exercising and the fishermen returning and selling fish - definitely an interesting time to walk along the beach!

 It also is patrolled by lifeguards in certain areas.

My Khe Beach

Da Nang is well worth a stop over of a night or two, if only en enjoy a relaxing change of pace from the highly trafficked tourist hotspots of Hoi An and Hue. Definitely a place to enjoy not getting offered souvenirs/clothes/whatever else touts are always trying to sell tourists!

Minority Villages

So, you've come to Vietnam.
You've spent time in cities and towns along the tourist trail and you think, I want to see what life is like in the minority villages.

This leads to a dilemma.....

Any traditional minority village is going to be hard to get to, no buses or tours go there. People won't speak English (and possibly not Vietnamese) and you wont find a range of hotels to suit all budgets and tastes.
If tours and buses did go there - chances are it will soon morph into a tourist trap. While it is unfortunate, my experience has been that once people in (SOME) minority villages learn that there is money to be had from tourists..... they stop farming, and set up a shop filled with the same mass produced scarfs, wooden carvings, and kid sized "traditional outfits"  that you can buy in Hanoi, HCMC, and Hoi an to your hearts content.

The bad.....

One such example is in the highlands near Buon Ma Thout. This area is a hot spot for minority villages, as they all tend to be in the highland areas. I believe it is called Ban Don Village (and famous for an elephant king who captured 100's of elephants during his life).
I was expecting a quiet little village with people going about their day. I was travelling with a group of Buon Ma thout locals - so hopeful that we could get talking to a villager and maybe even invited in for tea, I could do some photography.... all in all my imagined village was beautiful.
I found something more like disneyworld than a village.

The main street is lined with houses-turned-into-shops As you walk you are constantly called to look in this shop, that shop, buy this "local made" - no, it's not.
Then we bought an entrance ticket to walk along bamboo walkways (which were quite pleasant as they wound around through tree branches and over a wide cool river - but wasn't really minority village-y!). Which lead to an island with more shops, a restaurant, a stage with very loud music that seemed to vary from "traditional performances" to karaoke and elephant rides.

All in all it was a tourist trap!
So - absolutely do your research, and if it seems that multiple companies are doing tours to one place - be suspicious, if buses are turning up on regular occasions..... chances are the town has turned into a tourist machine.

The Good......

Lak Lake. About 1 hour from Buon Ma Thout and on the way to Dalat is beautiful.
You are able to stay overnight in long houses for about $5 per person (phone Mr Duc at the Cafe Duc Mai - right outside the village, on 0905371633). You house will have a basic mattress on the ground with moquito net. And toilets and showers are available at the cafe. They also do set menus for lunch and dinner at a very reasonable price. Breakfast is served.... but was basic eggs on bread style.

There are a couple of souvenir shops down near the lake, but for the most part the villagers are going about their everyday, ignoring tourists. It was a great chance to walk around the village and watch people doing everyday job (like chopping up banana trees to feed to the pigs, or walking the cows out to pasture) without being hassled to buy anything.

Plus, it is possible to get a bus from Dalat or Buon Ma Thout!

Anywhere else?

I will update as I find more places that are accessible and not tourist traps. But the otherway you can get to see minority villages is to take a private tour (car based if you are a group of people, easy riders for one or two are cheapest) and tell them you want to see villages and minority areas.