Ninh Binh: Boat rides, rice fields and limestone cliffs

Why would I go to here:

Ninh Binh is the starting point for a number of beautiful activities - near by Tam Coc is hailed as a "landlocked Halong bay"; Trang An is a similar (but more man made) boat trip, Van long wetlands features great bird watching opportunities.
Cuc Phuong national park is an easy motorbike ride or taxi trip away. add in a number of pagodas and little attractions, plus most of these places are an easy bike ride away.

I can only advise about the places I actually went to: So here goes....

Van Long Nature Reserve

Boat trip ~90 minutes through the wetlands. two people per boat. 15KVND each for entrance and 30K each for the boat. Because I went alone I paid 60K and had the boat to myself.

Very nice, much more relaxed that Tam Coc. Nobody trying to sell you anything (at least, not until after you get off.... and they weren't very pushy about it). I didn't see any languars, but I did talk to some bird watchers who said they say the monkeys. But When I was there the weather was windy and extremely cold! Lots of opportunities for Bird watching however, so if that's your thing definitely go! Similar scenery to Tam Coc, I think based on price and relaxed-ness, I prefered Van Long. Plus you have the chance of spotting wildlife here!






getting there:
Van Long is a way out of town, by taxi or on tour is easiest, but will be costly. If you get the local bus that travels to Nho Quan and ask to get off at Van long it should cost around 20K the bus stops on the main road and you can walk the 2kms up to the boat area, or ask someone at the shops across the road and I am sure they would make a couple of motorbikes appear to taxi you the 2km (20K or less).
To get back just wait for the yellow bus from Nho Quan back to Ninh Binh and wave it down.

Tam Coc or Trang An?

From my readings online I was planning to go to Trang An. It sounds like it is nicer, less touristed, and less likely to have people harassing me to buy things (always a downer when you just want to enjoy to scenery). I spoke with some other Aussies who did do the Trang An boat trip (and have previously been to Tam Coc. Their advice was as follows:

Trang An is a longer boat ride (about 2-3 hours) through a number of caves and along a river/ lake of some sort, you have to have a boat with 4 people. If you are alone, or only 2 people you either need to pay for the whole boat (600K VND) or buy your own tickets (150 or 170K each, I can't remember) and join with other people. Joining with other people was easy, as there were hundreds and hundreds of people (mainly Vietnamese people who I believe come down on weekends from Hanoi). The caves at Trang An were longer and more impressive (but i was told by the hotel owner that they are longer because the were created using dynamite - not natural!). They recommended that trip at Trang An, but did say that while they were there there were hundreds of boats and people (It was a weekend, and it was afternoon).

I took the hotel owners advice and instead went to Tam Coc (mostly because the bike ride was more through country rather than along the main road, and there seemed to be more interesting things to see nearby). He claimed it would be about an 8km bike ride, plus another 3km to the Bich Dong Pagoda. It was probably only 7km total. I think the exaggeration was because he was hoping that I would instead pay his motorbike tour guide to take me.

~~rice farmers on the road out to Tam Coc ~~


~~start of the boat trip~~

I went on a Sunday in the morning. When I arrived, there was a steady stream of people, but never more than a few other boats in site. And the boats were space out so that we didn't feel bumper to bumper with other people. These boats take 2 people each (although, I saw some boats with 4 Vietnamese people.... but only ever 2 Westerners! If you are a group of 3 I sure you can all squeeze in and the rower will just expect a bigger tip.).
I had read that the souvenir sellers are ferocious at Tam Coc - even your own boat rower stopping and demanding that you buy something before they continue. I found nothing of the sort.
At the turning around point of the trip - one boat with some fruit, drinks, snacks came and asked if we wanted to buy. We did not. They then tried to convince us to buy a drink for our rower (which, by my understanding they sell back at half price later). We declined and after less than 30 seconds of offering, or rower rowed away. No other harassment to buy anything. And - to be honest, had it been a hot day, i would have enjoyed a cool drink. So really, having the option to buy isn't so bad!


~~ a Taste of Tam Coc scenery~~

I didn't see anyone being pressed to buy souvenirs. But I was told that another group of people saw a rower pull out a bag of stuff and offer it. Apparently they refuse to take you back unless you buy. But if you stick to you guns and say no! they will only lose money by keeping you in there boat - and my advice would be if they try to sell stuff and you feel uncomfortable, or they don't take no for an answer. Refuse to tip them. And explain why. Again - they wont hold you hostage forever because ultimately they are the ones who lose the chance to take another group out!

As we approached the jetty our rower did "ask for" (read demand) a tip. We had already decided to give about $1 each (so we gave her 50k VND total) Seeing as the boat ride cost us 300K (150 each, or if you go in a boat alone 180K VND). Which is surely mostly going to the rower this seemed reasonable. She told us it wasn't enough and that we should give her 100. But we just laughed and made light of it.... I figure that smiling as you say no keeps everyone in a better mood. She didn't press that point and just finished the trip.
I know that Vietnamese people typically do tip, I don't know how much is normal. I think that while for Westerners we see her saying "tip, tip" as a demand.... but actually she is probably well aware that a lot of westerners do not typically tip for such services, and making sure we know it is usual. But, with the language barrier (and with western views that talking about money is often vaguely taboo) we find it confronting and rude. Ultimately I don't think they mean to be demanding (at least, not until she wanted more!) but sometimes it is about making sure we know the protocol and don't embarrass ourselves by not tipping when we should. Or maybe she just wanted money.

Bike parking - should cost 2K for a push bike and 5k for a motorbike. That is the local price. I never mind if I pay 5k for park my pushbike... because, it should be safe (and I don't want to deal with explaining to the hotel that their bike was stolen) and as a westerner if I pay a little more so be it.... the extra 10 cents will make a lot more difference to them than it will to me. However - I refused to pay the 20K that they asked for when I arrived at the bike parking station (not totally sure if that was for one bike or two. By this point I have met up with a Spanish dude and we were going to share a boat).

Bich Dong Pagoda

A short bike ride further is Bich Dong Pagoda. At the bottom is a collection of souvenir sellers (of course) and a bicycle parking station. The bike parking guy pulled out a very official looking receipt book and proceeded to show me the price as printed on his tickets.... 50 000 VND. He tried to tell me it was parking and the entrance fee (pagodas - being a place of worship a free). As I unlocked my bike he then pulled out the blank receipt book and asked how much. I said no - you are a cheat and liar... I will not pay you anything. 5000, 5000 he said, writing it and trying to hand me the paper.

I had seen bikes parked outside a little way, and went there. Telling him that because he cheats people, I will not give him my bike. I think the place I parked my bike was actually the stall holders bikes.... but they just asked me for 2K and happily let me leave it there.

The pagoda is quite nice walk up through 3 different levels. I didn't see and mind blowing statues (after a while - all pagodas are pretty much the same unless they have something really special!) But the view is nice and you climb up through a cave.

At the very top is a mud path and sign saying climb up. If it was dry i think it would be a fairly easy climb, but be careful in the wet weather. The clay mud is incredibly slippery and the rocks are very sharp. The view was amazing (and well worth it) but I earned a long, deep cut up my arm and leg for my climb!


~~ the view from the top of Bich Dong~~

Unfortunately at this point - due to the large gash down my arm I didn't continue on to the cave, or any other attractions - just back to clean up my wounds.
I was though told that the Mua Cave was beautiful - the cave apparently is very small and not particularly interesting (if you want caves.... have a look at my posts about Phong Nha and surrounds!!). But I am told you climb many steps and get a great view down over Tam coc and the countryside.

Cuc Phuong National Park

This one I must preface by mentioning that I grew up in rainforest in Australia. So I have always had plenty of chances to spend time in some pretty amazing forests and national Parks! Cuc Phuong was nice..... but for me it wasn't mind blowingly amazing! If you haven't spent time in the jungle or rainforest and you want to - Cuc Phuong is a good trip either from Hanoi or Ninh Bihn
Getting there:
(local bus I am told is about 80K and will drop you at the entrance, walk about 1km to the tourist centre entrance). Or from Ninh Binh you can get a taxi (about 400-500K) or a motorbike taxi (250K).
It is possible to get a bus up. Take the local bust from Ninh Binh to Nho Quan (25K) and then you can get a bus that goes to the entrance of the park. I am not sure what times... possibly passing through Nho Quan about 11ish. The return journey is easier as the bus leaves Cuc Phuong at 9am and 12.30am. Sometimes it will come into the park, sometimes better is to walk to the mainroad/park entrance and hails it. If you ask the office people to book it it costs A LOT more (200K instead of 80K to get to Hanoi. I believe to get this bus to Nho Quan should be about 30K (then another local bus to me(van long) or straight to Nihn Binh, or 80K if you take it to Van long wetlands.

The best way would be to hire a motorbike in Nihn Binh and get a good map! (the road was unmarked and confusing) and ride up, that way you also have transport in the park.

sleeping:
I stayed in the "stilt house" at the tourist entrance. For $5 a night you get a single bed, small room and shared showers - though the showers didn't really work well! They also have cabins better rooms and cabins, but these cost more.
You can also stay in the park centre, but I think they only have the more expansive rooms and cabins here... not the cheap share style stilt rooms.

What to do:
There are a number of short and long walks to various sites such as the cave of the prehistoric man, 6km round trip to the old tree and various others. Some apparently require guides, others don't. The problem is that most of these walks start from the park centre. 20km from the tourist entrance.... and the only way to get there is hire a motorbike or bicycle. not shuttle, or taxi service.
There is also a primate rescue centre that apparently rescues and releases primates. The conditions seem barely better than a pit zoo. Animals in small cement cages with only on or two pieces of wood to sit on. No trees to climb over. I also don't think they do all that much releasing. The monkeys in one cage had lost their male 5 years ago.... so they must have been there for more than 5 years! They do seem to be successfully breeding some, but I can't understand why (when they have a whole national park!) they don't fence in more of the "semi-wild" areas.

Sleeping

I stayed at the Xuan Hoa hotel. For $6 a night I got a small room with a double bed, small tv(but it had plenty of English channels!) a small window that looked into the hall way and my own bathroom (with good hot water and water pressure!) Plus a fan and aircon. For $6.... I was happy! I did see some of the other rooms with features queen sized beds, more space and a good view, or twin beds. These were a little more expensive but still cheap enough!

Xuan Hoa trip advisor

Eating

I ate a few meals at my Xuan Hoa hotel. The set menu was great and very good value at 100, 130 or 150K (I am guessing the portion sizes are bigger with the more expensive ones?) I got fried spring rolls, rice, my choice of main dishes (from plenty of options) and a vegetable option (steamed of fried water spinach). Very tasty too! They do a great ginger tea (big chunks of ginger in hot water instead of a powered or tea bag form I have had elsewhere).

My favourite find was called Pho Bo 24 (or in English Beef Noodle soup 24). (Here for map and info) Food is about 30K VND for a big bowl of noodle soup. Beef is the strong focus! I ate there twice and both times it was delicious! Also very busy with locals too - meaning there is turn over of food and so what your eating is fresh, and much less likely to result in sickness! I did see the food maker wearing gloves, but I also did see these gloves grabbing meat, then chopped up vegies.... But everything spent time in the boiling at of broth! Plus this is one place where my meal came with vegetables (chopped up tomatoes and carrots in the soup as well as the usual bean sprouts and salad greens).

I also ate at a little cafe on the main road in front off the train station. I am not sure what it was called, but featured low tables surrounded by cushions on each side, and slightly less low tables with very low stools in the centre. The walls are painted with murals of cartoon couples in love, and it featured large pictures or the foods advertised. I ate the pork rice burger and a strawberry smoothie. The burger was amazing, I wasn't really sure what to expect, but it turned out the the "rice burger" meant that instead of buns, rice was pressed into circles to form the top and bottom of the burger. the portion was quite small, but it is was very different and quite tasty. The juice was actually some sort of strawberry syrup in water. So not like a strawberry juice elsewhere which was crushed strawberries.... but we were far far away from the strawberry growing highlands, so expect fresh strawberries was probably a bit much!

Scams

Ninh Binh has to be the town where I have come across the most little annoyances of people trying it on (Other than Hanoi.... which I haven't been to but here is the worst for dodgy taxi's etc!). Mainly because I really haven't had problems with "scammer" much at all. But I don't count a lot and I tend to just laugh it off if someone asked some stupidly high price for an item.... they usually smile and drop the price to something more reasonable. I will be doing a post about how to avoid that sort of thing soon.... so look for it!

First up was straight off the train in the morning.
I had planned to eat some banana pancakes in the Queen hotel - which my guide book said were potentially the best in Vietnam (pretty big call!). As we got off the train, a woman was handing out business cards for the aforementioned Queen hotel. She was also about to lead a troop of people there, so I figured.... beauty - I'll follow along and get my pancakes (it was an all night train - I was tired!). I did think at one point that I had expected this hotel to be on a more main road.... not down this little alleyway..... The pancakes was a single large oily, western style pancake with a few small banana slices on top (not cooked). Terrible and boring! I later discovered the ACTUAL Queen hotel on the main road. I had planned to go back and try THEIR banana pancakes, but didn't get there.

So when you get off the train - do not accept the business cards or the offer of a woman showing you to the hotel. The Queen hotel (quite a fancy looking 3 star place) and the Queen mini hotel (a cheaper version on the opposite side of the road with the restaurant. are on the road with is directly in front of the train station entrance. Not down an alley around the corner!

Otherwise it was only the bike guy at Bich Dong with his 50 000VND bike parking and entrance ticket.