Sunday, 30 March 2014

Should I travel to Vietnam during Tet?

I spoke with another group of travellers who I met the week after Tet.....
They asked how my Tet was, and I raved excited. Friendly people, celebration, eating, music, eating.
I looked at them closer, They looked tired, and brow beaten... oh, yeah... how has that gone for you guys... I was specifically told not to travel during Tet. Interesting, none of the guidebooks say, in giant red letters (or any letters), do not travel during Tet!

Problems with travelling

Buses and trains are full of people traveling to see families. If buses aren't already full... It's because there are 30 people in an 18 seater. This works by a combination, many people on each seat, and these little metal stools they put in the walkway when they run out of seats. You may also pay a lot more for your tickets. Or if you choose to hire a car and driver instead the cost may be a lot more than you expect!

Reputable businesses, especially tourist companies are closed.
 If the company is open for business, the staff are likely unhappy as they are not making the once year pilgrimage home to see family. And instead of starting the year happy and relaxing, they are working and angry. So, either be ready to tip them well.... or be ready for a tour with a surly tour guide.

It also becomes more impossible to tell, am I paying more because Tet (prices do rise, significantly for some things), am I paying more because white, is it both?


I really felt for this poor family, they had bad travel timing, and by the sounds also the worst luck with people trying to scam them ($5 for a coconut? Seems excessive). but, they laughed about it, remembered the great parts of travelling and had a memorable family holiday!

So, remember... don't try to move around during Tet! Take a few days off to relax in one place, you might even get invited to a local party that way!

So:
Being in Vietnam during Tet is an amazing experience! You will see amazing sites, like motorbikes with whole trees of giant pots of flowers going past. Tet is a time of new beginnings, so people all want to start the year happy, and generously. Any mistakes of the last year or fights with other people are forgotten. Most people have time off work and return to their home village to visit family and pay homage to ancestors.

For me, the atmosphere in Vietnam during Tet was amazing!! - but I wasn't trying to travel around until the 4th day  of the new lunar year and I spent time with local families.


My plans mean I am in Vietnam during Tet..... What do I do?


I would recommend finding somewhere to hunker down. Don't try to travel from one city to another, or if you absolutely must - book in advance! But if you just find a town that you are happy to spend 3 days in, maybe sitting by the beach or in the country. Just stay put. Chances are, if you go walking through the streets, or in the country you will be invited in for Tet Lunch!

If you do go into a house during Tet, eat something. Anything. Otherwise it is quite rude and as if you are snobbing them / their food. This seems easy, but gets harder when you are invited into a dozen homes in a single afternoon! Also, LEARN A FEW WORDS! just hello (xin Chao), and Chuc Mung Nam Moi (happy new year). It isn't THAT hard to learn 2 of three phrases, and is much more polite. Plus, local people will love it if you shout CHUC MUNG NAM MOI in reply to their calls of happy new year!

Lucky Money

It is also traditional to give Tet gifts. Usually only to children and the elderly.... but you can be sure you won't offend if you just give to the children. This is a money gift, amounts vary but 20 000VND for most children is fine. Traditionally these are new crisp bills put into a red envelope. You can buy the envelopes very easily at lots of shops. Or if you don't get the envelopes that's fine too and just give the kids some money. Make sure you have LOTS of 20K notes before you start.... nothing would be worse than running out with two kids left. This is called lucky money and is usually all saved up

Holiday surcharges and tips

Usually at least a few coffee shops or restaurants will be open. Dont worry if the bill seems a little higher - you would expect to pay more in most Western countries on Christmas day, so don't fight it here!
If you seem to be in a very small town and are worried - just buy some bread and jam for the first day of tet. That's the day things are most likely to be closed. After that the little shops will start to return to business.

Be generous with Tips and payment during the first week or so. Traditionally how someones business fairs straight after tet "set's the tone" for the coming year. So make them happy and give a better tip. You might even find that some businesses won't have set prices, you pay what you think they deserve (again, this is setting the tone for the year). So try to forget about your ideas that Vietnam-will-be-incredibly-cheap and just remember what it would have cost you at home -> even with the Tet increase I am sure it is still much much cheaper!!!!

Calendar confusion

Vietnam traditionally used a lunar calendar. They switched to the gregorian calendar to be on-par with the Western world. However still use the lunar calendar for tracking festivals and holidays, as well as the best days to pray etc. The exact date of Tet will vary each year as the Lunar calendar varies.
You also need to be very clear if you are booking something or talking with people about dates. For example, if Tet begins on the 30th of Jan - That is now the 1st day of the lunar year. So if you want to check out of you hotel and say on the 1st we will check out. They may check you out on the 30th Jan, instead on the 1st of Feb. I found that the most confusing part of Tet as in 2014 it fell on the 31st of Jan. So The people I was staying with would be talking about things happening on the first, and we constantly had to clarify, 1st Feb.... or 1st of new lunar year (31st jan)


Most of all, Enjoy the atmosphere, wish people a happy new year, and be generous!

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